First point

A primeira experiencia de surf em Los Angeles foi no mitico first point em Malibu. A (tentar) surfar com uma longboard emprestada, a minha actuacao foi... demasiado fraca para estar aqui a dissertar sobre ela... No entanto, deu para ainda curtir um bocado, fazer algum desporto e ainda acabar todo partido porque o fundo da agua estava cheio de... calhaus!

Para ficarem a conhecer mais da Surfrider Beach, aqui vai a descricao da Wikipedia:

Surfrider Beach is a famous right-break that had a big impact on the surfing culture in Southern California in the 1960s. Located near the Malibu pier, it is still probably the most surfed spot in Los Angeles County. Surfrider Beach has three primary parts to the wave, they are first point second point and third point. First point is a perfect mushy wave that is very popular with longboarders. Second point is the main wave for high performance surfing. It has a main take off that lines up and connects into the inside called the "kitty bowl". Lastly is the third point which consists of both a left and right. The right usually closes out into second point where as the left can go all the way through.